Articles

Weaving Pole Training Hints


Kindly reprinted courtesy of Jane Mohr www.netscenes.com/pawsabilities

 

Clicker Training Weave Poles.

I have had great success with the past few dogs in teaching the weave poles using a clicker. The steps I use are outlined below. It requires a little bit of a balancing act, with the touch stick in one hand, and the clicker and treat in the other. I usually do this without a leash, since that's one more thing to worry about in my hands.

Introduce the dog to the touch stick and the clicker. See the section on clicker training for detailed instructions on this.

When the dog will follow the touch stick with you walking with it, you can begin weave pole training.

Set up a short set of off set weave poles, no more than six, but two to four is fine.

If you have wires or guides, put them on the weave poles before introducing the dog to the weaves.

Show the dog the touch stick, and pass it between the first and second pole, moving from right to left. (Remember the dog always enters the weave poles with the first pole on his left.)

If the dog walks between the poles and touches the stick, click and treat him while he's still in the poles.

Match your pace to the dog's pace. Don't go too fast, or the dog will give up. Don't go more slowly than the dog, or they'll come out because you've crowded them and given them no way to move forward.

When the dog exits the poles, click and treat and make a huge deal out of it!

If the dog tries to jump over or duck under the wires or guides, just pick him up and put him back inside. No corrections, just a matter of fact "this is how we do it".

Repeat from the other side, so that your dog is accustomed to performing weave poles from both sides from the beginning.

Every time the dog exits the poles, he gets a click/treat. If he exits too early, just put him back in, and click and treat when he exits successfully.

Follow the program for the off set weaves, with a click and treat for each successful attempt. Clicking only when the dog has completed the set will teach the dog that the weaves are one complete obstacle, and eliminate the tendency for the dog to exit early for their treat, or to slow down in the middle wondering if the treat is coming, a common problem I see with people that randomly click in the middle of the weaves.

When your dog gains confidence, you will notice an increase in speed. When he shows you he knows what he's doing, you can remove the touch stick. When the dog is racing through the weaves without being asked to, then you can add two more poles. Always add poles in increments of 2.

Once the dog is performing a full set of 12 off set weave poles quickly and with confidence, you can begin to move the poles in by an inch or so. Repeat the process outlined above, with the wires or guides still in place. Depending on how far about the poles were off-set, it may take several repetitions before the poles are finally in a straight line.

Once the poles are in a straight line, you can begin removing the wires or guides. Remove them from the middle, and gradually work your way out to the ends. Only when the dog can consistently perform the poles without popping out do you remove the next set of wires. If the dog has problems, be patient and help them. Don't push too quickly, or remove the wires too quickly, because you can ruin the dog's confidence, and develop slow weave poles.

Targeting:

Once the dog understands the concept of weaving, you can start working on sending the dog ahead of you. I prefer to start this on a short set of poles, usually six. It is generally easier for the dog to target if the weave poles are offset, although this is not critical. If your dog will not call off a target, you will need a helper for this exercise to make sure the dog doesn't get the target until it has successfully completed the weave poles.

Place the target, whether a toy or food, on the ground about a foot out from the last weave pole. Give the dog a hand signal and tell them to "Go Weave". Help them out initially, and give them a release to the target when they have gone through the weaves. Gradually start hanging back as they weave, allowing them to get the target each time they are successful in working the whole line.

Eventually work to where the dog is being sent through the whole line of weave poles without you going with them. This will be a necessary skill in AKC's CDS class, and in USDAA's and NADAC's Gamblers classes.

Angled Entries:

Also critical to a good weave pole performance are angled entries. These may be taught by gradually moving off to either side of the line of weave poles, so that the dog is accustomed to entering from any sort of angle, whether acute or a straight entry.

There's nothing more impressive in a trial than seeing a handler send their dog to an angled set of weave poles from a distance. Anyone can do it if they train consistently, but weave poles, like Utility go-outs, are something that must be trained everyday. And like go-outs, each dog will have a period when their weave pole performance suffers, and then will come back again. So don't get discouraged, just go weave!

Weave poles can take a long time for most dogs to master. If you have a dog that takes a while, don't get discouraged, your dog is normal. If you have a dog that catches on very quickly, be grateful and don't tell your classmates, as they may beat you up.

© Jane Mohr

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TRAVELLING WITH YOUR DOG

Australia has one of highest levels of pet ownership in the world. Currently in NSW it is illegal to have an unrestrained dog in the back of a ute (up to 6 months jail and/or a penalty of $5500), and there are now laws against travelling with unrestrained pets in the car cabin.

 

Imagine travelling down the freeway at 120k with your dog's head out of the window, ears flapping, slobber drooling and Fido decides its time to play just as you suddenly need to brake.

 

Fido comes flying through the air into your head and on to the window screen. A 10 kg dog flying through the air in a car doing 100kph is a 1-tonne projectile into the back of your head. The result: serious injury or even death.

 

Restraints to make travelling safer for both you and your dog

1.  Harnesses

These fit around your dog's chest, back and shoulders, and there are two main types of restraint: (a) the seat belt slips through a loop in the harness and then is inserted into the seat belt buckle, or (b) you may need to purchase a small seat belt strap which has a clip at one end that attaches to the harness and the other end has the tab which is inserted into the seat belt buckle.

These are available from pet stores and major department stores such as K-Mart and Big W.
Cost is $15.00 to $40.00 depending on size and type.

 

2.  Travel cage

Check the size to make sure it is comfortable for your dog, then secure with seat belt or to child restraint anchorage points.
Some of these also come with non-spill water bowls and food containers. They are available from pet stores and cost $60.00 and up depending on size and type

 

3.  Cargo barrier

Suitable for station wagons and 4WD's, this keeps the dog away from the driver, although it won't always protect the animal in an accident. Costs are about $350.00 to $900.00 depending on make of vehicle and where purchased.

 

Remember, when travelling with your dog always take water/food and a toy for your dog and make travelling as comfortable as possible. And don't forget the “pit stop” on a long journey – after all, your best friend needs to go too.

 

http://www.plentyforpets.com/
 


Positive Training


The following article was printed in the March 2002 edition of
"The Canine Journal, The Official Publication of the Royal N.S.W. Canine Council Ltd." The article is reprinted here with the kind permission of the publisher and the author (Karen Larsen Bridge).

OPINION POSITIVE TRAINING

What it is, what it's not and how it works

By Karen Larsen Bridge

Karin Larsen Bridge has kindly written the following article on Positive Training as a follow up to her opinion article which was published in the January 2002 issue of The Canine Journal entitled 'Food Is Not The Issue - It's About Which Game You Choose To Play'.

POSITIVE motivational training is the embracing and application of the belief that dogs can and should be trained by the judicial use of rewards alone. It is 'positive' because something is added (rewards) and 'motivational' because the animal is encouraged to try lots of different behaviours to earn a desired reward.

It is not, the combined use of aversives and positives such as employed by many traditional trainers. Using food or a toy to 'motivate' a dog along with leash pops, jerk and pull techniques, verbal reprimands, scruff shakes and other physical manipulations is not in keeping with the philosophy of the true positive motivational trainer as described in this article. The single biggest difference between the two schools is the mind set of the trainer. While the traditional trainer looks to 'correct' undesired behaviour, the positive trainer looks only for what the dog is doing right.

How it works

The laws of animal learning tell us that "behaviour that is rewarded will be repeated". This is really all you need to know to successfully train a dog or any other animal. By controlling what happens immediately after a behaviour (the consequence) you can predict whether a behaviour will increase (through reinforcement) or decrease (through punishment). Positive trainers increase the behaviours they want by rewarding the dog with things it wants such as food, toys, games and social interactions (known as positive reinforcement). Unwanted behaviours are decreased by the removal of rewards such as ignoring, time out from training or feeding an unearned treat to another dog (known as negative punishment).

Reward or Reinforcement?

A reinforcer is by definition, anything which, when presented immediately after a behaviour, causes that behaviour to increase. For rewards to be effective reinforcers they must be:

  • Related to a behaviour.
  • Desired - in the dog's opinion not yours (many dogs would work for used tissues).
  • Rationed or rare - if it is freely available why work for it? This is one reason why praise alone is often not a very effective reinforcer for pet dogs who may receive a great deal of 'sweet talk' in the course of their daily interactions - not necessarily contingent upon good behaviour.
  • Variable and unpredictable - dogs love the element of surprise. Not knowing which reinforcer might appear or when is a more effective way to train than delivering predictable rewards at predictable intervals. Timed - presented within one second of a behaviour. This is not always practicable however the use of a 'bridge' such as a clicker between the behaviour and the reward, eliminates this problem.

The role of food in positive training

Most positive trainers like to use food as a reinforcer in training because:

  • It is a primary reinforcer preferred by most dogs, needed by all.
  • It is easy to use in fast succession allowing one to work quickly.
  • It easily doubles as a lure in the early stages of learning.
  • It can be used to classically condition other rewards such as toys, games and praise which are associated with it.
  • It can be used to counter condition. negative associations with training, environments and other fear and stress related problems.

Making the most out of your dog's daily calorie intake

World renowned veterinarian and animal behaviourist Dr Ian Dunbar recommends throwing away your dogs food bowl for ever. Take the same amount of food he would be given for free everyday in his bowl and instead feed it bit by bit, contingent upon good behaviour. Train anything you want but make him work for his dinner just the way nature intended. Some advantages of feeding in this way are:

  • It dispels the idea of 'spoiling'' your dog with treats. Instead you are teaching him that nothing in life is free and that there are real benefits in pleasing you.
  • There is no risk of unbalancing the dog's diet as you might with the I excessive use of 'treat' foods.
  • It is an effective boredom buster - you are more likely to spend time interacting with your dog when you see his food container is still 2/3 full! Your dog now gets a triple reward - food, attention from you and mental stimulation.
  • Fussy eaters won't fill up on treats refusing dinner.
  • Prevents problems of obesity caused by, unmonitored calorie intake.

Other Reinforcers

Games of retrieve or tug are also high on the list of reinforcers. 'Life rewards' such as having the lead put on for a walk, opening doors to come in or go out or rides in the car can all be used to train everyday behaviours without the use of a primary reinforcer such as food. The important thing is to know what 'turns your dog on' and to make him work for these things rather than give them away for nothing.

Schedules of Reinforcement

Perhaps the most perplexing question in positive training is how often to reinforce your dog for the right behaviour. Here several general rules apply.

  • Continuous Reinforcement - every correct response receives a reward. This is the quickest way for an animal to learn a new behaviour.
  • Variable Reinforcement - is the most useful for strengthening and maintaining behaviours. An example would be to reward only every second or third sit and continuing to increase the number of sits required before earning a reward.
    In practice, trainers would not only insist on an increased number of sits between rewards but more importantly would choose only better (straighter, faster) sits to reward, there-by shaping the behaviour into a better performance.

The art of positive training lies in the skilful application of reinforcement schedules - withholding rewards just enough to make your dog try harder but not so much as to demotivate or discourage him. In general-a wide variety of rewards delivered unpredictably will ensure your dog stays eager to play the training game.

Shaping

It is important that whatever behaviour you wish to eventually train is broken down into small, easily achievable, component steps - this is known as 'shaping'. Each rewardable response along the way provides a unit of information which help the dog understand what you want. Every time your dog gets a step right, he has one more piece of the ultimate behaviour puzzle.

Management

This plays a major role in successful positive motivational training. The dog must be set up for success by whatever means possible so that there is always something for you to reward. For instance, if you want to teach your dog to 'come' in the dog park, attaching a drag line is a management technique that will ensure success. By holding the end of the drag s line you prevent your dog from engaging in further exploration and socialisation (natural environmental rewards) instead of coming to you. A reward as soon as he reaches you completes the lesson that coming to you is always the best option.

Reinforcements - love'em or hate'em you can't train without 'em

Reinforcements may be either positive (applied) or negative (removed) - as long as it causes behaviour to increase, it is a reinforcer. For some reason, it is the application of positive reinforcers, particularly food which seems to deter many traditional trainers from adopting positive training methods. Traditional trainers most often employ the removal of the pressure of the check chain as their reinforcement of choice and they do so throughout the dog's life, even into the highest levels of training. If in doubt, watch a few trainers preparing to enter the UD ring and you will see the check chain being applied to reinforce heel position or attention. Yet the application of positive reinforcers such as treats or games has been misconstrued as being suitable only for beginning levels of training. How often have instructors at dog clubs been heard to say "you shouldn't still be using food in this class". They have confused the limited use of food, in sight as a lure, with the use of food after a behaviour as a reinforcement. In fact, the positive trainer reinforcing his dog with a treat or game prior to entering the obedience ring is applying the exact same principles of animal learning as the traditional trainers, except that his preferred choice of reinforcement is positive rather than negative. In both cases, a variable schedule of reinforcement (occasional treats or jerks) needs to be maintained throughout the life of the animal to prevent the behaviour from extinguishing. The suggestion that one method is 'spoiling' and the other is 'real' training is unjustified, moralistic claptrap. Behaviour must be reinforced to be maintained, it is simply a matter of personal choice whether you prefer to apply a hot dog or jerk a check chain.

Advantages of positive training techniques

  • In positive reinforcement training, the relationship between dog and owner is a partnership of mutual empowerment" (Pat Miller - The Power of Positive Dog Training 2001).The dog learns a way to control his environment by engaging in the behaviours you have selected to reward - a win/win situation for dog and handler.
  • Dogs learn to enjoy training and the training environments as they represent opportunities for reinforcement.
  • As positive training looks only to reward desired behaviour, there is no appropriate application for the use of scruff shakes, alpha rolls or shouting so often seen in correction based training methods. Your dog learns that you can be trusted to remain cool, calm, and emotionally consistent through all training sessions - truly a worthy 'Alpha'.
  • Because training is such a positive, fun experience, which the dog wishes to engage in, 'time out' becomes the only punisher you need.
  • In scientific terms, positive training classically conditions YOU as a secondary reinforcer to your dog. In plain language, YOU come to represent everything fun and good in your dog's life - a canine 'Santa' and as a result are rewarding in yourself.

Is Positive Training for You?

Positive training will never suit all dog handlers. You must first ask yourself why do I like dog training? What initially attracted me to dog training clubs and competitions? Some people enjoy the traditional 'man/master- dog/servant' relationship. They enjoy 'commanding' the dog and ensuring that it 'obeys'. For them traditional training will probably always be the preferred method and provided there is no cruelty involved, there is nothing wrong with that.

Positive training reflects more of a teacher/student relationship. Teachers design the curriculum and lead the lessons, but to maintain a harmonious classroom there is give, take and respect on all sides. The attraction for these trainers is the communication between two different species. The ultimate goal for positive trainers is not ribbons on a wall or trophies in a cupboard, but the development of a unique relationship based on "authority without domination, love without subservience and respect without fear". **

Dogs are perfect at being dogs. They already know how to sit, stand, drop, speak, scent and retrieve. What they have to learn is what our words are for these behaviours and when, where and why they should perform them - this is our choice and therefore our responsibility to teach humanely.

Luckily, with positive motivational training this can be achieved in a way that is fast, efficient and fun for both our dogs and ourselves. ** (Quote taken from the 'Clicker Trainers Goa1)

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A Pets Prayer

Author unknown, happy to acknowledge

If it should be, that I grow frail and weak,
And pain should keep me from my sleep,
Then, you must do what must be done,
For this, the last battle can't be won.

You will be sad I understand,
Don't let your grief then stay your hand,
For this day, more than the rest,
Your love and friendship stand the test.

We had so many happy years,
What is to come can hold no fears,
You'd not want me to suffer so,
When the time comes, please let me go.

Take me where my needs they'll tend,
Only, stay with me to the end,
And hold me firm and speak to me,
Until my eyes no longer see.

I know, in time you will see,
It is a kindness you do to me,
Although my tail its last has waved,
From pain and suffering I've been saved.

Don't grieve it should be you,
Who decides this thing to do,
We've been so close ,we two, these years,
Don't let your heart hold any tears.

Smile, for we walked together,
for a little while.

 

 

ONE JUMP AGILITY

Who wouldn’t love to own a lush green training field dotted with brightly coloured agility equipment? For the majority of dog owners this idyllic dream will always remain just that. The good news is that a great deal of agility training can be accomplished with minimal equipment. Last issue we looked at some foundation skills for agility that required no equipment at all. These included:

• A reward system.
• A reliable ‘stay’ and release.
• A reliable ‘come’
• A send ahead to a toy or food treat
• Run by my side left and right.
• Turn ‘back’
• Move ‘out’.

This issue we learn how to apply these skills over a single jump.

Jump Heights
Dogs under 14 months of age should do very little jumping as their growth plates are not yet closed leaving them susceptible to joint damage. This is particularly true for the larger, heavier breeds. The exercises below may still be practiced however with bars placed on the ground or just a few centimetres above. The principle of controlling your dog over and around the jumps will remain the same. Even for older dogs there is no need to quickly raise the height of your jump. Your dog needs to develop his jumping athleticism slowly gaining in confidence at each step along the way. For a healthy, adult dog of normal weight, start with the bar at approximately the height of your dog’s elbow . As your dog grows in confidence you may raise the bar to a little over shoulder height – which would be all that would be required even in competition.

Teaching a Jump Cue
In the early stages, it is not important to have a word to tell your dog to ‘jump’. Dogs pay most attention to the direction you are moving, the position of your body and only minimally, the obstacle name. Your set-ups and body movement should be enough to help your dog understand you would like him to jump the obstacle in his path. Add your cue word only when your dog is regularly moving forward and over a jump with you. As there are more jumps than any other obstacles on an agility course choose a word that you can say quickly and repeatedly without becoming breathless. Common cues for jumping are: “jump”, “over”, or “hup”.

Send Ahead
General obedience training encourages dogs to look directly at their owner. One of the skills your dog needs to learn in agility is not to look directly at you. The agility dog must focus on the obstacles ahead while at the same time using their excellent peripheral vision to remain attentive to you. The target plate or toy we worked with last issue will help your dog to understand it is ok to look and move away from you. If your dog is performing the send ahead from last issue, adding a jump will be easy. Place your target plate or toy about 2 meters past the jump and your dog two meters in front. Release your dog to the target as you say ‘go!’ If you are using a toy as the target, you may want to follow and have a short game when he picks up the toy.

‘Come’ over the Jump
Leave your dog in a sit stay about 2 meters in front of the jump. Move to a similar position on the far side of the jump.
Turn and call your dog to you – reward in ‘front’ position. Alternatively, face the direction you want the dog to travel, call him and as he comes to you reward by your side.

Running with your dog over the Jump
Begin by placing your dog in a sit position in the centre of the jump while you take up a position parallel but wide enough so that you are able to run straight ahead without running into the side of the jump. If you start near your dog but then move wide to avoid the upright, your dog is likely to follow you around the jump rather than go directly over it. Release your dog from the sit and move directly forward. If your dog has already succeeded in performing the first two exercises, he will most likely move forward and over the jump with little hesitation. Reward frequently and sincerely.

The Post Turn
The Post Turn is the first and simplest turn over a jump. Sit your dog in front of the jump while you take up a position next to the upright facing the same way as your dog. Release him and as he moves forward over the jump turn away from your dog 180 degrees ‘catching’ him with your outside hand. Reward. You are now between your dog and the upright. Repeat several times starting with your dog both on your left and your right.

The Pivot Turn
The Pivot turn and the post turn are nearly identical from your dog’s perspective except that now your dog will have to turn a little tighter and be rewarded from your inside hand. Take up your position as before, but this time as you release your dog turn toward him 180 degrees and reward from your inside hand. The dog should now be between you and the upright.

The Figure 8
Last issue you learned how to perform a figure eight. Now it’s time to incorporate a jump into the exercise. Stand in the centre of the jump with your dog by your side about 1 meter from the jump. Send the dog over the jump with your right hand, followed by a post turn to the right. As your dog completes the first circle, turn into your dog, rotate clockwise as you pick your dog up with your left hand and drive him over the jump and around the second post. The first few times reward at this point. When you are comfortable with this exercise it may be repeated several times in succession – as long as you and your dog don’t get too dizzy, As you and your dog’s skills develop you will be able to stay stiller and nearer the centre of the jump as you guide your dog over the bar and around the uprights in the familiar figure eight pattern.

‘BACK’ or Turn Away from Me
Last issue you learned to spin your dog 180 degrees away from you with a ‘back’ command. The turn can now be cued before or after a jump. Move with your dog close to and parallel to your jump. Cue “back – over” and your dog should turn away from you and over the jump. Repeat in both directions.

‘OUT’
Is similar to the ‘back’ command except that you and the dog will continue to move in the same direction – it is simply a lateral move away from you. Again move parallel to your jump and say ‘out’ as you extend your arm out toward the jump. Slowly increase the parallel distance from the jump before asking for ‘out’. This command will also be useful when you are faced with two obstacles side by side and you require the dog to take the one furthest from you.

Improving Jumping Form
The purpose of this exercise is simply to improve your dog’s flexibility and strength, encouraging him to lift his rear legs cleanly over a jump. Place your dog in a sit on one side of the jump as close as possible to the bar. Straddle the bar so you have one leg either side of the bar. Using a food lure or toy, encourage your dog to spring up and over the bar. Repeat several times in both directions but don’t overdo it as it is a very strenuous exercise. Again start with low jumps and slowly over time build to full height

Solid Foundation
Basing these exercises on just one jump means that you can train important concepts in the privacy and convenience of your own backyard. When your dog understands the principles involved, you’ll be able to progress through classes and courses much more quickly. Even if you never plan to compete in agility, a little jump training can add fun and interest to the life of any dog.

© Karin Larsen Bridge Get S.M.A.R.T. dogs – other than for personal use no part
of this article may be reproduced without permission of the author- This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

First appeared in Dog’s Life Magazine Nov/Dec 2006

 

 
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